Day 4 - Grand Isle to Catfish Bay

Catfish Bay, NY (south of Rouses Point)

25.2 miles

Another really nice day on the water, except for the last two hours when I had to turn south from the Canadian border and head into the south wind that had been giving me a nice nudge all day. I'm settled in early at Craig's house ... a trust advisor for our family who, in addition to be gracious, generous, and wise, also owns lakefront property south of Rouses Point, where I am right now. Happy coincidence?

Craig's present state is as my own - he's working out of his office up here on Champlain, a perfect place to grow up and now to raise kids and spend time with parents, too ... sort of a gilded cage but not a cage, or even gilded ... just naturally beautiful. I'm pitching a tent on the yard, my boat is bobbing on a mooring (a rock, actually) out in front ... it's all good, except the wind. If nothing changes, tomorrow will be a real grind.

The algae here ... since Burlington, in fact ... has been significant. The 'bloom' shows up as countless little particles, like tiny pearls, suspended in the water. I'm advised not to drink the water, but it's perfectly good to swim, and in spots over rock ledges, the algae seems less dense and water clarity is excellent. Again, I am grateful for the consistent clarity of our home waters; no suspended algae, far less grass and floating green globules ... our lake becomes even more precious when held in relief with the other finest lakes in the country. But I'm loving Champlain despite its challenges; it seems the vast scale of the place is either a moderating influence ... or, more likely, an even greater cause for concern and action. Water quality is everything in these communities ... without an inviting lake, tourism, and creatures, die.   

I learned firsthand yesterday morning of another kind of pollution ... but, a necessary kind. The Green Mountain Boys (158th Fighter Wing) have turned in their F-16's for the new F-35, which is equipped with the most powerful engine in our arsenal ... over 40,000 pounds of thrust. As I was rowing out of Winooski yesterday morning, six planes took off in succession, and they were ear-splittingly loud; kayakers near me dropped their paddles and cupped their ears. After they departed, I could hear them cavorting in the military airspace over the Adirondacks, then back for a circuit of the field, all in a really, really loud roar. Some say that the roar is 'the sound of freedom,' a necessary symphony played necessarily for training and preparedness. I don't doubt it. I'm just saying that the central Champlain valley hears a distinctive thunder whenever these planes are at work - there's no way to mask 40,000 pounds of thrust! Our Queen of American Lakes is south of most of this action; we get out occasional helicopter or Schenectady C-130, which are hummingbirds compared to the F-35.

So, an early night tonight in anticipation of a real grind tomorrow. Wind is everything to a rower, and tomorrow will balance out today's relative joyride.

And, oh! I bumped the US Customs Dock in Rouses Point ... only a lone sentinel sitting in an SUV on an overlook. He got out, we exchanged pleasantries, I asked if I could take his picture, he said yes, I asked if there was a store nearby and he directed me to Stewart's, and I asked if Canadians were giving him any trouble, and we laughed. So sad. I counted over thirty big, beautiful sailboats up on the land at Gaines Marina - all Canadians, all locked out. Oh, if you could only hear the debates, dialogues, harangues, and stump speeches that take place in my boat!!

Also ... try this: get a copy of Shakespeare's Sonnet 29, and sing it as a country-western song. It works! If I had my Google machine, I'd look it up to see if it's been done.

Peace, love, and happiness ... and health!